GALA SURCOAT OF THE ESCADRON DES CENT-GARDES OF EMPEROR NAPOLEON III, SECOND EMPIRE.
The surcoat is made of chamois cloth edged with a double gold braid (17 mm wide for the inner braid and 47 mm for the outer braid), framed by a 2 mm wide gold soutache.
Front of the surcoat: at the top, a gold hook is attached for hanging aiguillettes. In the center, a richly crafted motif is applied, depicting the grand imperial arms (gilded stamped brass, crimson velvet, gilded and dark blue enameled silver plaque, gold braid, threads, bullion, and gold sequins). This motif features the imperial eagle surrounded by the grand collar of the Legion of Honor placed on an imperial mantle with bee motifs topped with the imperial crown. The motif measures 18.2 cm in height and 16 cm in width.
Back of the surcoat is similarly braided but without decoration.
The inner lining is in light ochre silk.
Both sides are sewn together on the right side and connected on the left side with seven golden brass hooks and rings.
In very good condition, with some moth holes in the fabric.
France.
Second Empire.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND:
The description of the uniforms of the Cent-Gardes Squadron published in the Military Journal, No. 65 of the year 1854, following the circular of September 20, augmented by modifications, notably in 1856. These modifications were made under the command of Verly.
This new uniform was first worn in service on Tuesday, May 27, 1856, as stated in a letter dated June 1, 1856: "We had a grand review conducted by the Emperor at the Champ de Mars last Tuesday. For that day, I had arranged a surprise for His Majesty; I had my men put on their new uniforms, and the Emperor was very pleased. It made a magnificent impression."
Until December 1854, the cuirass and padding were replaced for the full dress infantry uniform by a fabric cuirass called a "surcoat."
PALACE CUIRASS:
A. Gilbert, located on Rue de Bellefond, was commissioned to create a model plate for this cuirass on August 31, 1854. In fact, there are two embroidery designs: one with a background of a radiant sun and the other simply depicting the imperial mantle. No order appears to have been placed with Gilbert, presumably because the model plate did not suit. Ultimately, the embroideries adorned with small gilded metal elements were chosen. However, the ink-written numbers inside the salon cuirasses prove that they were worn from the presentation of uniforms in Biarritz in July 1854. Delivery slips from the Paule house mention in December 1854 the discontinuation of these expensive fabric cuirasses costing 275 francs each.
Reference :
4849